Thailand's Hidden Gem With Dark Past

By Soon Li Wei KANCHANABURI (THAILAND), July 4 (Bernama) -- After I returned from my holiday in Thailand last month, I mentioned to some people that I visited Kanchanaburi and most of them had no idea where it was. Most visitors to Thailand would normally check out the "big bad city" of Bangkok before heading to Chiang Mai in the north or the southern islands such as Krabi, Koh Samui or Phuket. My friend and I had one week to spend in Thailand and after two days in Bangkok, we decided to visit Kanchanaburi, thanks largely to our Airbnb host Mai who recommended that we visit the picturesque bridge on River Kwai and the beautiful Erawan waterfall. Kanchanaburi is just a two to three-hour journey from Bangkok and one can go there by train, bus, minivan or metered taxi. We chose to take the bus from Southern Terminal (Sai Mai Tai). The bus left early in the morning and it took us two-and-a-half hours to reach our destination, with the ticket costing us 100 bahts (US$3.26) each. THE BRIDGE ON RIVER KWAI Kanchanaburi is a lovely countryside town situated 128.7 kilometres west of Bangkok. The town itself is quiet, apart from a few backpacker-type bars that have live music in the evenings. We stayed in Noble Night Guest House located in the famous Maenamkwai Road, which is popular with backpackers and travellers. After checking into the guest house, we decided to explore the small town by hiring bicycles at 50 bahts each. This charming riverside town was made famous by the classic 1957 World War II film, ‘Bridge on the River Kwai’, the story of which is based on the infamous Death Railway. The bridge was actually built by the Japanese Imperial Army during the war as part of the Thai-Burma Railway. To find out more about the railway's history, we visited the JEATH War Museum, located near the River Kwai bridge. The name JEATH is derived from the first letters of the names of the countries that were engaged in the construction of Death Railway from 1942 to 1945: Japan, England, America, Australia, Thailand and Holland. According to the museum information, over 300,000 labourers had lost their lives during the construction of the Thai-Burma railway, hence its modern-day name Death Railway. From the original 415 km railway that connected Thailand with Burma, now only a 130 km track until Nam Tok station exists as the rest of the railway was abandoned and destroyed over time. According to the museum guidebook that I read, every kilometre of the track had cost the lives of 38 workers. There are also photographs and illustrations narrating the living conditions of the prisoners of war (POWs). About a kilometre from the museum is the War Cemetery where the remains of 6,982 POWs who died during the construction of the Death Railway were buried. HELLFIRE PASS, ERAWAN Of course, a visit to Kanchanaburi is not complete unless one takes a train ride on the Death Railway itself. We boarded the train to Nam Tok from the River Kwai station (one can also board the train at the Kanchanaburi station) and the scenery along the route was definitely stunning. The track cuts through beautiful landscapes comprising mountains, dense jungle and streams. Our train journey to Nam Tok station took a couple of hours and upon arrival, one of the first things we did was to explore Hellfire Pass located near the train station. With the help of an informative audio guide, we listened to the narrations of some of the men who had suffered there. Hellfire Pass was where thousands of railway workers had lost their lives while working in terrible conditions. It is a fascinating place to explore, even for those with limited interest in WWII history. Its dark history aside, Kanchanaburi is also known for the Erawan National Park, which is an hour's drive away and is home to the Erawan Falls, a seven-tiered waterfall. Most travellers take the day trip package to Erawan National Park, which costs about 1,000 to 1,300 bahts per person. Erawan Falls is one of the most revered waterfalls in Thailand with its turquoise pools. Foreigners have to pay a fee of 300 bahts to visit this waterfall. Connecting the seven tiers of the waterfall is a path which snakes up the hill and through the jungle. We wanted to hike up to the seventh level which is the topmost tier of the waterfall but due to the muddy ground (it had been raining there), we decided to stop at the fifth tier. One can enjoy a swim in one of the pools at the various levels of the waterfall. Or you can just sit by the pool and dip your toes into the water for a free massage! Yes, the water is full of the Garra Rufa fish which like to nibble on people's toes and heels and eat the dead skin. A few tips for those who wish to visit Erawan Waterfalls -- workers will start to clear the higher tiers at around 3 pm, so give yourself plenty of time to reach the top and don't forget to bring your sunscreen, insect repellent, swimwear and a pair of good trainers for hiking. SOME TIPS I guess one of the best things to do in Kanchanaburi is to stay in a floating raft or houseboat along River Kwai, which is secured to the riverbank. There is something calming about a gently swaying room and watching the sunset while floating on the river. However, due to our tight schedule and last minute plans, we couldn't stay in one and ended up booking a normal guesthouse. The best time to visit Kanchanaburi is between November and February when it is cool and dry. From March to May, it can be extremely hot while it is the rainy season from June to October. Muslim travellers need not worry about halal food as Kanchanaburi has many restaurants and food stalls operated by Muslims from Pattani and Narathiwat. Edited by Rema Nambiar -- BERNAMA