Delhi Diary: India In A National Debate About A Humble Dish

By Shakir Husain Bernama's correspondent in New Delhi shares his take on the developments in the Indian Sub-Continent. NEW DELHI, Nov 6 (Bernama) -- India witnessed an intense debate about a dish that's widely known across India but often not part of cookbooks or serious discussions on cuisine. The dish's humble nature doesn't excite food enthusiasts. Adding to an image problem, doctors often recommend it to patients whose digestive systems have grown weaker due to illness. Paediatricians recommend it -- preferably in a porridge-like form -- among the first solid foods for babies because of its lightness. The dish made from rice and lentils is called "khichdi" or "khichri" in Hindi and has its regional variants. Suddenly, some people cooked up a storm as they felt that khichdi should be considered India's "national dish". An attempt was made to give it prominence when a celebrity cook on Saturday prepared 918 kg of khichdi with media fanfare at a food industry fair in New Delhi. The best known north Indian version of khichdi is made by boiling rice and split moong dal (green gram) together and garnishing it with fried onions. Accompaniments may include ghee, chutney, pickles and yogurt. The khichdi at the food fair was prepared using a lot more than just rice and one lentil variety; it included multiple grains, pulses, coarse cereals and vegetables. Officials, food critics and opinion makers have used glowing terms for khichdi, making it appear like India is in search of a "national dish". For comparisons, mention nasi lemak and Malaysia comes to mind, say fish and chips and people consider it quintessentially British, humus is part of authentic Arabian cuisine and koshari (also spelt as kushari) is Egyptian. India's Food Processing Minister Harsimrat Kaur Badal was present at the trade fair and helped with the cooking of khichdi. "It is a wholesome food as it contains most of the nutrients. It also symbolises the country's unity in diversity," she said, according to an Indian media report. Social media was not as respectful towards khichdi, however. Many joked about it, pointing out it's recommended when a person is sick. Some wondered what would be the national drink to go with it. Most people familiar with Indian food would think that India already has a "national dish" and it's called biryani. Biryani is a tasty treat for foodies, especially those who eat meat. It appeals to those with strong stomachs and is part of the rich Mughlai cuisine. By comparison, khichdi would be considered too bland a dish. However, the current Indian government is a votary of vegetarianism and it cannot be seen as promoting biryani because of its association with mostly non-vegetarian Mughlai cuisine. This may explain the new-found love for a modest dish. In literature, the word "khichdi" also carries a rather negative connotation meaning hodgepodge or a confused mixture. The latest attention khichdi has received and the adulation some chefs have showered on the dish may suggest grander objectives. "We promote international foods in India and it is our opportunity to showcase our superfoods to the world," said India's famous chef Sanjeev Kapoor. He led the team that steam-cooked the record-setting khichdi at the trade fair in a wok weighing around 1,200 kg. It seems India will be content if khichdi attains the kind of cultural and iconic status koshari has achieved. Indeed, some writers in India have compared the two dishes. However, the comparisons are probably wrong. Koshari is already a star dish and highly popular as a comfort food. That kind of popularity in India is enjoyed by the samosa snack in north India and dosa (called tosai in Malaysia) in south India. One fear is that on the scale of deliciousness, food critics may treat khichdi poorly because of the bland nature of its ingredients. Another dish called “khichda" or "khichra” (also called Haleem), made from many grains with meat and spices, would get far better reviews for taste and nutritional value. Perhaps, a vegetarian version of khichda should be considered in the search for India's national dish. -- BERNAMA