Chasing The Sunset In Tamsui, Taiwan

By Melati Mohd Ariff TAIPEI, March 9 (Bernama) -- I had the chance to try out the train service in Taipei during a short trip to the capital city of Taiwan recently. I chose to travel to Tamsui, or as the locals call it, “Danshui”. The district located in New Taipei City derives its name from the Tamsui River, which means, “clean water”. Located north of Taiwan, Tamsui was once invaded by Spain and Holland in the 17th century. It was formerly known as a district bustling with trade and fishery. Today, the district’s development is propelled by its booming tourism industry, boosted by the efficient Taipei Metro Tamsui Line, completed in 1997. TAMSUI’S SUNSET I was driven to visit Tamsui for two reasons. First, I wanted to see for myself if it was true what they said about Taiwan’s train service - that it was extremely clean and efficient. The saleslady at the supermarket near my hotel had enthusiastically convinced me that the trip would be worth it, as the sunset in Tamsui was gorgeous. “Go, you won’t regret it. It’s easy to get there. Just take the MRT’s ‘red line’ and disembark at the last station. That’s Tamsui,” said Alice, who spoke decent English. “I have visited many places, including New York. Their train stations are nowhere as clean as ours,” she added proudly. My other motivation for the trip to Tamsui is to see whether the district located a 45-minute train ride away from Taipei was as clean as the capital city of Taiwan. I was raring to go. What the saleslady did not tell me was, I had to go through 24 stops from the main station in Taipei to get to Tamsui. It was the 25th stop from the Taipei 101 station! Fortunately, the scenery along the way more than makes up for it. NOT DISAPPOINTING The trip was indeed worth it. Tamsui is an ideal destination for those who enjoy the tranquility of the oceanside. There were not that many people at the northern station of the Taipei MRT when I went. Buying the tickets at the Taipei 101/World Trade Centre station counter was a fairly simple process. The one-way fare to Tamsui is NT$55 (US$1.60) (NT$100 is about US$3). While waiting for the train to arrive, I noted that the passengers were already lining up for the trains. They queued in an impressively neat line within the marked spots. There were no yelling or loud voices. Indeed, the Taiwanese maintained proper decorum wherever they were. It further reminded me of my conversation with the saleslady, Alice. “We have been trained from young to always mind our manners. When we talk we are careful to not use a loud voice or to yell out,” she said. I did not have to wait long for my train. Many seats were still empty when I embarked. From my seat, I was able to observe the other passengers. Many of those who sat ahead of me were ladies of age. Perhaps they were returning home from work because all they carried with them were their handbags. I came to the conclusion because many of the cleaning staff at the hotel in which I stayed were elderly women. They were dressed in warm clothes as it was winter in Taiwan. One was even nodding off to sleep, tiredness registering on her face. The younger passengers, meanwhile, had their noses buried in their smartphones. The train was indeed clean, as eating and drinking was not allowed on it. COLD TAMSUI As soon as the train moved past the 24th station, Hongshulin, I started looking out the window. On the horizon I saw a majestic mountainous range, followed by the blue sea. A large bridge traversed across it. The air was rather cold when I stepped out from the Tamsui station. It was drizzling, the norm during Taiwan winters. The cold had many stopping by at the cafe near the station. The café was part of a certain popular 24-hour convenience store, which operation in Taiwan is on a large scale. There are signboards that remind visitors to the promenade area to not litter, bathe, fish or cycle around the area. CLEAN, CLEAN TAMSUI I only had around two hours in Tamsui. I decided to spend it strolling around the area, breathing in the fresh air. It was still drizzling. Several tourists, including an Arab family, were busy taking photographs at the wharf. A signboard caught my attention. It reminded those walking their dogs in the area to ensure that the canines were leashed and their excrements scooped up. The notice said that under the Waste Cleaning Act, dog owners could be fined between NT$1,200 and $6,000 (NT$100=US$3) if they allowed their dogs to defecate anywhere without cleaning up after them. Many small shops selling souvenirs and knick-knacks could be found by the seaside, in addition to stalls selling snacks, ice cream and seafood. Among the interesting ones were those selling roasted and fried squid, fish and prawns. As I was busy snapping away on my camera, my lenses caught an elderly lady sweeping the ground. She seemed determined to continue working despite being in her golden years. At a corner of the walkway by the waterfront, a sculpture of a man kneeling by a boat could be seen. It was that of the Christian missionary Dr Rev George Leslie Mackay, a British-Canadian who came to Tamsui around 1872. He had married a local and decided to stay on in Tamsui, eventually dying there. The bronze sculpture was completed on Dec 27, 2007, to commemorate his contribution to Tamsui. TAMSUI OLD STREET/GONGMING STREET I had intended to go to the Tamsui Fisherman's Wharf, as I was told it was the best place to view the sunset. However, I had to let go of my plans as I was short of time and the rain had yet to stop. Instead, I headed for Tamsui Old Street, also known as Gongming Street. The cleanliness of my surroundings took me by surprise again. Rubbish and recycling bins can be found along the road. Not a garbage heap was in sight. As I walked down the road, I noted the shops specialising in a unique array of things. One was selling herbal eggs, another pickles, yet another chips and sweets that look like nougats. A store that caught my attention was one selling coffee beans and grounds called “83 Coffee”. A well-behaved dog said by the entrance, as if welcoming visitors. Its photo was also sprawled on the shop’s signboard, as if it were its mascot. I then realised that many other stores also kept dogs on their premises. Some wore cute clothes and ambled about in front of the stores, sometimes going inside again but never barking at passersby. As I was hurrying back to the train station, I noticed a long queue outside a store. As I near the premises, I realised it was a bakery selling cakes, hot from the oven. Perhaps the queue was testament of its tastiness. My time in Tamsui was short but I was glad for the opportunity. There is of course, a tinge of regret for not being able to catch the beautiful sunset I have heard of due to the inclement weather. Perhaps if I had the chance, I would come again to Tamsui in the spring or summertime. I planned to catch the sunset while strolling on the Lovers’ Bridge of Tamsui, said to be the district’s most beautiful landmark. -- BERNAMA